Arrival: The Road to San Pedro

As we exited through cloud cover to begin our initial descent into the Guatemala City airport, I looked down to lush green mountains and valleys. Brown rivers and slim roads slithered through the highlands and I wondered on which roads I would soon be traveling on my way to San Pedro la Laguna. As we landed, I glimpsed at the slums that encircled the airport and realized I had never seen in person anything like that...
The airport was surprisingly modern - glass walls and clean floors - with the English language predominant on the signs inside the airport - Restrooms, Baggage Claim, Exit...Immigration, baggage claim and customs went surprisingly smooth and fast and I suddenly found myself spit out of the airport - out into one of the most unsafe cities in Central America! As I had 2.5 hours to wait before my shuttle to San Pedro arrived, I had expected - or rather ASSUMED - I would find an ATM and at least a cafe or waiting area for me to bide my time. But that was not to be and instantly I had people shouting and approaching with shuttle and taxi offers to various cities. I politely declined, and attempting to look as un-bewildered as possible, I walked amidst the crowds loading onto buses, taxis and shuttles. I approached a woman helping a large tour group to ask whether she could recommend a place to wait, and when she turned to me, she unfolded a piece of paper in front of her chest that read "JILLIAN LEE" Ahh, serendipity! Que suerte! In minutes her son had arrived and the three of us headed to Antigua in their Jeep. In Antigua, I would transfer to a minivan shuttle that would take me to Panajachel where I would then take a lancha to San Pedro...So the trip had begun and once we departed the airport, I was filled with the sights, sounds and smells of Guatemala City. Burger King, McDonald´s, Hooters, and TONS of car dealerships lined the hectic highway, which was filled with racing vehicles and noxious diesel fumes. Lauren - They even have a Zara, here!
I arrived in Antigua - a very popular tourist destination - and learned that much of what I had previously read was true. Antigua is a bit overrated, but of course, I was only there for a few hours. It´s quaint enough w/ lots of shops and a beautiful Parque Central, and of course offers the opportunity to climb to the active Volcan Pacaya. I´d suggest Antigua as a good day trip if anything....
An hour later, after navigating my way through the narrow cobble-stoned streets of Antigua to find a bank (where security stands guard w/ shotguns and rifles at the doors!), I hopped into my minivan shuttle to Panajachel, one of the lakeside villages at Lake Atitlan, and joined a young British couple seemingly at each others´ throats about direction-giving and decision-making. Sprawling across the back seat, I relaxed and thought to myself: "Man, I´m glad I´m going solo!¨
...Oh yeah, there was also a security guard w/ a pistol stationed outside the Subway sandwich shop! Being around such high-powered weapons definitely makes me feel more unsafe than safe, but oh well...
The ride to Pana was a narrow winding path, incredibly bumpy and absolutely gorgeous. We climbed and descended through the highlands, among the lush green forests I´d seen from my plane window above just hours before...And thankfully one-half of the Brits was napping, so the ride was peaceful as well!
When we arrived at the dock (muelle) in Pana, I was met by Henry, who exclaimed "Going to San Pedro? Come on. We´re waiting on you. I rushed down the dock, on to the crowded boat where I found my seat next to my Capitan..Henry! The motor boat was covered and fit about 40 people and we headed out across the lake which was much bigger than I expected! The time was 6:30pm; it was late dusk and dark rain clouds hovered over the lakes and surrounding mountains. I couldn´t see much of the lake, or surrounding villages, but I could tell I liked this place.
Henry conversed with me in English - one of many languages he´s taught himself while working with tourists over the years. Henry is a funny young guy, with lots of energy and a love and deep pride for his hometown of San Pedro. When we arrived at San Pedro, an hour later, after making various stops around the lake, Henry helped me find a place to stay, eat, use Internet and chill at the bar. My hotel room was sweet - clean, double bed, private room w/ private bath and HOT shower, for only $5/night. Dinner was good and I was glad I could let my family know I was safe and sound.
Now, of course, I was a bit hesitant to let Henry take me under his wing, no doubt with a variety of intentions, but I kept my guard up and enjoyed getting the inside scoop by a true local. I spent a few hours at the Buddha Bar, drinking Gallo (the local beer) and hanging out with Henry and his friends. It was a great opportunity to practice my Spanish (mainly listening)...but the guys also spoke Tutuhil, the beautiful local Mayan dialect of several of the villages of Lake Atitlan. Interestingly, some of the other villages speak an entirely different Mayan dialect - and they are within a few miles of each other! Tutuhil incorporates a lot of "sh" sounds and delicate gutteral clicking that would take awhile to master...It was also funny to listen to Bob Marley, hip hop, and Reggaeton, ¨blasting¨from Henry´s phone! I also got a few lessons about Mr. T quotes! Imagine, learning about American pop culture from a bunch of young Guatemalans...They also invited me to join them on Saturday night, when they venture to Guatemala City to go to a rave....thanks, but no thanks.
In the bathroom, at the bar, there was a sign that read "The Karma gods are watching. Please put it in the trash" accompanied by an image of a figure on a toilet seat, hand reached out dropping toilet paper (?!?) into the trash can. Am I supposed to put my toilet paper in the trash, rather than flushing?!? ...Well, at this point, that´s how I understand things...Interesting.
...When I arrived back in my hotel room, I learned that my room was filled with the throbbing beats, electronic melodies and shouts and whoops of humans partying it up at Freedom Bar, just steps from my room....I think I¨ll spend some time today hunting for a new hotel! In spite of the noise, I had no trouble getting to sleep and in the morning I awoke and stepped out on my balcony to the most beautiful view of the lake (I´ll upload pics later...) The mountains are gorgeous and remind me so much of the beautiful Koolau range on Oahu - so I kind of feel right at home!! I had breakfast on the lanai of a restaurant overlooking the lake, as other tourists watched Croatia beating Germany in futbol on the TV inside the restaurant...Breakfast: Spanish Torta with plantains, creamy white cheese, black beans, and tortilla, and COFFEE!!! Delicious local coffee that grows on trees all around town. Right now the trees bear their young, unripe green berries. I´m off to explore more of the town and I´m sure I´ll have more to write about as soon as I step out of the door!

If the journey is the destination, then I´ve indeed arrived!

p.s. Emilia - I found you a cute, adorable puppy!!! Actually, I´ve found everyone a cute, adorable puppy as there are tons of stray dogs roaming around town....